Friday, October 15, 2004

Vacation homes get luxury treatment

By Jennifer Conlin International Herald Tribune

Two years ago, my parents announced that they had bought a summer house in Niagara-on-the-Lake, a well-preserved Victorian town in Ontario Province. The plan, they explained, was to rent out the house during the rest of the year to offset the mortgage payments.

I pictured a no-frills cottage where our children would spend their days swimming off the dock and their evenings playing board games on the porch. I could not have been more wrong.

On our initial visit we discovered that our home in London was much more Spartan than my parents' newly renovated Canadian place. The children quickly shunned the lake for the heated swimming pool and padded lounge chairs. Playing Monopoly on the porch was boring compared to the 61-inch plasma screen TV in the Ralph Lauren-decorated family room.

And when our 7-year-old returned from his first lap around the centrally air-conditioned house to report that all five bedrooms had their own bathrooms and television sets with cable service, we looked at my parents - stunned.

"The rental agent told us that clients today expect all these luxuries in a house," my father said, adding that he could now charge about $3,000 a week and quickly recoup their $150,000 investment.

"The old days of renting the charming, quirky little cottage are gone," said Patricia Cookson, director of CV Travel in London, which for the last 33 years has rented out houses all over Europe, including villas in Majorca, Portugal and Greece. "Our clients have lifestyle expectations now."

Saunas, gyms and DVD players are just a few of the usual amenities requested by Ivan Sellers' clients, who are looking for the most luxurious ski chalets in the Alps.

"Boot warmers are now simply standard in my chalets," said Sellers, who founded Indigo Lodges two years ago in Geneva to offer elegant rentals in top ski resorts in Europe.

Sellers said the average weekly cost per person was €1,700 to €2,800, or $2,100 to $3,500, depending on the resort.

"You pay more for a house in Courchevel at level 1850 than you would for the same house in Verbier," he said. "But despite the savings, many of my clients will only go to Courchevel because it is the more fashionable place to ski right now. They want a fantasy vacation in a fantasy house."

Chapters by Abercrombie & Kent, a division of the upscale tour company based near Chicago, now boasts more than 2,000 properties, including châteaux, apartments, townhouses and beach homes from Thailand to Tuscany.

Hugh Davies, the planning manager of Chapters, said it was "not uncommon" for his clients to spend £20,000, or $36,000, a week, on a luxury home in a place like Provence.

"But if they spend that amount, they want a house that has more than just a swimming pool and they want services beyond house cleaning," he said.

According to Davies, it is now quite normal to find rental properties equipped with wine-chilling fridges, outdoor kitchens, espresso machines and high-speed Internet access.

"Many of our villas are not just investments for the owners, but their vacation home as well," Davies said. "So the house will have every convenience, including children's toys and videos, because our owners want those same items when they stay there."

Competition among homeowners for a share of the travel market is another reason that the luxury home business has grown.

"There are lots of British people buying second homes here and then renting them out during the high season," said Cathy Smith. She and her husband are caretakers at La Rivolte, a 19th century villa in Grasse, France, that can sleep as many as 16 guests.

"To win the business you can't just have a beautiful house, you have to also have all the amenities," said Smith, adding that the owner, who lives in London, had plans to install broadband service, to add a gym and place mini-bars in each bedroom.

Lois Shannon and her husband have rented out their second home, a five-bedroom house in Mougins, France, that has a swimming pool and a view of Cannes. But they acknowledge that there were downsides.

"We came here once after a renter left and found the hard drive on our computer completely wiped out by a virus," Shannon said.

"It was an accident I am sure but, still, my husband had to spend half our vacation reloading and reconfiguring the computer."

The couple recently left London to live in Mougins full-time and start a company that will help foreigners buy and manage their second homes in France.

Shannon also warns that some guests can be quite high-maintenance.

"We had one American woman who complained that there were not enough tables in the house for her to set her drink down on during cocktail hour. American clients can be the worst," said Shannon, who is American herself.

My father, in the meantime, is installing a DSL line at the Ontario house.

"All our renters want to work while they are on vacation," he said, noting that I had better reserve some time now as summer is only nine months away.

I quickly asked for the second week of August. The third is already rented.

SAMMY HAGAR Birthday Report From Cabo - Oct. 15, 2004

According to a report at ZRock.com, VAN HALEN frontman Sammy Hagar headed back to northern California yesterday after wrapping up a record-breaking six-night run at his Cabo Wabo Cantina in Cabo San Lucas. Joined onstage each night by his beloved WABORITAS (drummer David Lauser, bassist Mona and guitarist extraordinaire Vic Johnson), Sammy spread the love and shared the stage as a welcome mat for musical guests Michael Anthony, Kenny Chesney, NICKELBACK's Chad Kroeger, Jerry Cantrell (ALICE IN CHAINS), Billy Duffy (THE CULT) and Steve Harwell (SMASH MOUTH) over the six-night run.

Sammy's Birthday Bash (Oct. 13) set list began with some of Sammy's acoustic renditions including "Halfway to Memphis" with his son Aaron. Things got electric as the WABORITAS hit the stage along with Cantrell for "Finish What You Started", "No Excuses" and "Man in the Box". Billy Duffy joined for "Rock Candy" while Chad Kroeger hit it with "Love Removal Machine". Michael Anthony grabbed the bass for such classics as "Why Can't This Be Love" and "One Way To Rock".

Sammy's wife Kari surprised her Birthday Boy by coming on stage dressed from tip to toe like Marilyn Monroe, giving him some love face-first with birthday cake. That was the cue for a larger 3' x 6' birthday cake that was being passed through the packed house ...and then on the ceiling, the floors, the walls and the fans. All in good fun, except for those that had to clean up the mess when the Cantina finally cleared at 3am.

Earlier in the week, Kenny Chesney and his band headlined the Cabo Wabo stage. The three-hour and 40 minute show included 90 minutes of Kenny's own tunes, followed by Sammy and VAN HALEN bass player Michael Anthony joining Kenny and electric guitarist, Clayton Mitchell, on everything from MONTROSE and VAN HALEN, HANK WILLIAMS and JOHNNY CASH. The evening's highlights included "Fall in Love Again" and a show-stopping "Where Eagles Fly", both with crowd participation and enough chill bumps to possibly make the audience forget the 90+ degree temperature in the Cantina.

Tuesday, October 12, 2004

Rental car shortage frustrates Florida: South Florida Sun-Sentinel

Rental car shortage frustrates Florida: South Florida Sun-Sentinel

Rental car shortage frustrates Florida


By Tom Stieghorst
Business Writer
Posted October 12 2004

There were no rental cars to be had when Suzanne MacDonald, a Denver advertising executive, arrived at Palm Beach International Airport last weekend.

MacDonald had flown in to attend a memorial service for her father in Jupiter. She canvassed the counter of every national car rental firm at the airport and came up empty.

Finally, an Avis employee took pity on her and steered her to a small independent car firm, she said. It's going to be expensive, she was warned.

She ended up in the very last car on the lot, a Porsche Boxster that rents for $199 a day.

"I had a great time, once I got over the initial shock and guilt," MacDonald said.

Across Florida, visitors are having trouble finding rental cars because of an unprecedented hurricane season. The shortage began after Hurricane Frances and is continuing, car companies said on Monday.

"The bottom line is if you're trying to book a car for this week, it's going to be tough," said Richard Broome, a vice president at Hertz Corp.'s national headquarters in Park Ridge, N.J.

Broome said the storms have thrown for a loop the normal patterns of supply and demand for this time of year. The result has been not enough cars in many locations to meet demand. Hertz and other car rental firms are scrambling to transfer cars to Florida.

"We're going to add several thousand cars to the fleet," said Broome, who declined to specify how many cars Hertz has in Florida now. "After this week, it should start to get better," he said.

Cendant Car Rental Group and Vanguard Car Rental confirmed their companies also had car shortages statewide.

"Many vehicles were damaged," said Alice Pereira, spokeswoman for Cendant, which owns the Avis and Budget brands. "We also are supplying vehicles to the Red Cross and Federal Emergency Management Agency," she said.

A spokesman for Vanguard, parent to the Alamo and National brands, said shortages were "across the board."

Rentals have declined in Florida since 2001 because people are taking more car trips in their own cars since the Sept. 11 terror attacks. But they remain vital for tourists who fly to the state, business people traveling from city to city, and those attending conventions and meetings.

Car companies said the problem started with a large number of cars driven out of state in August and September by residents and visitors trying to get away from the hurricanes. Then demand after the hurricanes came back faster than forecast.

Fall is typically a slow season for rentals in Florida, coming between the busy family vacation period and the prime winter months. This year, however, many people are making a quick trip to Florida in the fall to assess conditions.

"We have a lot of activity from people who are checking up on their properties or their boats," Broome said.

The hurricanes also impeded the operation of railroads and rail yards, which are critical to new car delivery, said Vanguard spokesman Rahul Kalsi.

"All in all, we are beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel as we received many new cars on Oct. 6 and hundreds more through the end of the week," Kalsi said.

Broome said he didn't have any specific information on how the shortage has affected prices. A check of the Expedia.com website shows 14 "Florida beach air deals" listed on the first page, but no "Florida beach car deals" at all.

Tom Stieghorst can be reached at tstieghorst@sun-sentinel.com or at 305-810-5008.

thehockeynews.com

thehockeynews.com

It's a Swiss vacation for some players


BY LAURA SULLIVAN
October 12, 2004

It didn't take long for moonlighting NHL stars Joe Thornton and Rick Nash to have an impact on their newly adopted Swiss league team, HC Davos.

Thornton, Boston's top center, and Nash, Columbus's sniping left winger, arrived in Switzerland three days after the end of the World Cup and had two points apiece in a win over HC Lugano. Since then, although jet lag and adjustments led to a few losses, Thornton and Nash have combined for 19 points in six games.

'With the bigger ice surface, there are more chances to score over here,' Thornton said. 'Usually, guys are all over us, but here you get a little extra time and little more freedom.'"

'Sanyasin' heads for the Himalayas - The Times of India

'Sanyasin' heads for the Himalayas - The Times of India

'Sanyasin' heads for the Himalayas


MOHUA CHATTERJEE
TIMES NEWS NETWORK[ WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 13, 2004 12:14:10 AM ]

NEW DELHI: Over with her campaign tour of Maharashtra, BJP leader Uma Bharati on Tuesday night packed her bags and left for a vacation in the Himalayas.

The sanyasin is taking time off political activity, with the party's permission this time. She has also promised of returning by November end and taking up any responsibility that the party assigns her.

Having left by a night train, Bharati will travel across Uttaranchal. Her first destination will be Madmaheshwar, beyond Badrinath. She will reach the place after a three-day trek. The itinerary for the rest of the trip has not yet been planned.

Before leaving for the Himalayan vacation, for which apparently she has been longing since her childhood, Bharati met the party's top leadership at former prime minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee's residence on Tuesday evening. Apart from Vajpayee, leader of Opposition L K Advani and BJP president M Venkaiah Naidu were present at the meeting.

It was decided at the meeting that she will be assigned specific responsibility on her return in keeping with her preferences, sources said.

"Even her interests in Madhya Pradesh will be kept in mind while deciding on what role she will be asked to take," sources close to Bharati said.

Purchase a vacation home with caution 10/13/04

Purchase a vacation home with caution 10/13/04

Purchase a vacation home with caution

Harry Cassidy, HOME HAPPENINGS
PUBLISHED: October 13, 2004

In my last column, I wrote about the many Americans who are purchasing vacation homes.

As this summer ends, you might be thinking about making the same move for next year.

Purchasing a second residential property involves special issues beyond those involved in buying a primary residence.

Owning a second home is not cheap. It might not qualify for the lowest interest rates or all of the tax savings common with many primary homes. Be sure to check with a tax adviser. In addition, you'll have many, if not all, of the expenses of your primary residence, such as yard work, property taxes, insurance and general upkeep.

And if you live too far away from your second home to do any work yourself, you'll have to hire someone to do it for you, adding to the expense.

Space is as much a consideration when buying a vacation home as with a primary residence. While you might believe that you and your spouse will use the home most of the time, extended family members are almost sure to want to visit someday.

Will you have enough bedrooms and bathrooms to accommodate them?

The real estate adage about location is still true with second homes, but another one could be "distance, distance, distance."

How far away do you want your second home to be?

According to the National Association of Realtors, if you're like most people, you'll want to purchase a property that's near water, mountains, wilderness or other natural attractions.

That could mean a substantial drive to get to your weekend or vacation retreat. After driving to work in rush-hour traffic all week, do you really want to load everyone in the car and drive for several more hours?

The Realtors survey said the typical vacation home is 185 miles away. One-third are more than 500. Even those whose second homes are considered fairly close — about 100 miles — still drive almost two hours to get there.

Are you willing to make that commute on a regular basis?

Many people are. They say they enjoy leaving their everyday life behind to get away for a few days or weeks. But other people find they arrive more stressed than when they left.

Many experts suggest visiting or vacationing in an area several times before purchasing to make sure it's a place you'll want to visit again.

While second homes have been appreciating in value, they're still a luxury. That means the real estate market could stagnate if the economy worsens. Although you might not live in your vacation home year-round, there surely are full-time residents nearby. If a factory or other major employer closes, it could affect your property's value.

If you do decide to purchase a vacation home, many experts suggest a real estate agent who deals in vacation properties in the area you're considering.

There's no substitute for someone who's a local expert. He or she can tell you what areas are hot, which ones are not, and maybe point out some unheralded attractions or properties you might not have known about.

Finally, ask yourself if this home will be your full-time residence someday. Many people dream of retiring to their longtime vacation retreats.

If you're among them, make sure your second home is in an area you would really want to live for more than a few weeks at a time.

Questions for Realtor Harry Cassidy can be sent to Real Estate Unlimited, 8258 Allen Road, Allen Park, MI 48101; or via e-mail to harry@harrycassidy.com.

High Court Won't Hear Vacation Time Case

AP Wire | 10/12/2004 | High Court Won't Hear Vacation Time Case

High Court Won't Hear Vacation Time Case

HOPE YEN
Associated Press

WASHINGTON - The Supreme Court declined to step into a dispute Tuesday over whether a restaurant chain must pay its employees for unused vacation time if they quit or are fired within a year.

The court, without comment, rejected the attempt by Denny's Inc. to stop a lawsuit in California state court over its vacation plan, which says hourly employees can't be compensated for accrued vacation days until completing one year of service.

California law guarantees payment of vested vacation when workers leave their jobs, and officials are seeking unpaid vacation wages for the employees.

Denny's countered its plan is governed by the more lax federal Employee Retirement Income Security Act, which allows the practice. It asked that a federal judge in South Carolina - where the vacation plan is administered - to rule first on which law applies before the California court can consider the state law claims.

The 4th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals in April ruled the federal Anti-Injunction Act bars a federal judge from intervening in state cases involving ERISA, drawing the appeal and ire of restaurant groups who fear added exposure to lawsuits in state court.

At stake is the vacation benefits available for tens of thousands of workers in the fast-food industry and other high-turnover jobs. According to AARP, many businesses seek to style their vacation plans as ERISA plans to avoid complying with tougher state labor laws.

"In addition to litigation costs, employers may face substantial exposure to liability under pre-empted state laws," the National Council of Chain Restaurants argues in its friend-of-the-court filing in support of Denny's.

The case is Denny's v. Cake, 04-6.

ON THE NET

Supreme Court: http://www.supremecourtus.gov/

AAA Travel Announces Exclusive Disney Vacation for Cubs Fans!

AAA Travel Announces Exclusive Disney Vacation for Cubs Fans!AAA Travel Announces Exclusive Disney Vacation for Cubs Fans!
Tuesday October 12, 12:43 pm ET

AURORA, Ill., Oct. 12 /PRNewswire/ -- AAA Chicago now offers an exciting Walt Disney World® Magical Gatherings(TM) Vacation for Cubs Fans & Friends.
This exclusive trip includes five days/four nights, roundtrip airfare, park admissions, choice of accommodations, variety of events and receptions and the opportunity to meet current and past Cubs team members!

"AAA is proud to partner with the Cubs and Disney to offer this exciting vacation," said Steve Bernth, AAA Chicago president and COO. "The opportunity to attend private events with Cubs players in a spectacular atmosphere is a first-of-its-kind trip."

A private breakfast welcome reception, including a Q&A and autograph session with Cubs players, an evening dessert reception and exclusive parties are just some of the features of the trip.

Cubs General Manager, Jim Hendry, and current and past players LaTroy Hawkins, Aramis Ramirez, Billy Williams, Jody Davis, Gary Matthews, Lee Smith and Hall of Famer Fergie Jenkins will travel to Disney World for this event.

On Dec. 4th join former major leaguers Matthews, Williams, Smith and Davis for a special batting practice at Disney's Wild World of Sports.

Join in on the fun as AAA Travel provides Chicago Cubs fans and friends with a magical Walt Disney World® vacation. Travel dates are December 2-6, 2004. Call AAA Travel (866) 4AAA - CUBS for more information.

AAA Chicago offers automotive, travel, insurance and financial services. It is part of The Auto Club Group (ACG), the largest affiliation of AAA clubs in the Midwest, with 4.1 million members in eight states. ACG clubs belong to the national AAA federation, a not-for-profit organization, with more than 46 million members in the United States and Canada.


Sunday, October 10, 2004

Anchorage Daily News | TRAVEL: When Fairbanks gets frigid, head for fun in the sun

Anchorage Daily News | TRAVEL: When Fairbanks gets frigid, head for fun in the sun

TRAVEL: When Fairbanks gets frigid, head for fun in the sun
SCOTT MCMURREN
TRAVEL

(Published: October 10, 2004)

Each year, Alaska's travel professionals get together and plan what's going to be the "next big thing" for travelers for the following summer.

This year, the group gathered in Fairbanks at the Westmark Hotel. Much was said about the success of the new cruise port in Hoonah, the new hotels in Fairbanks, Anchorage and Seward and the increase in visitors.

But the Fairbanks community is particularly excited about its winter activities, since Japan Airlines is bringing three planeloads of foreign visitors to sample the wares. Whether it's hot springs, ice carving or watching the exciting Yukon Quest Sled Dog Race, Fairbanks is making a run to corner the market on winter fun.

As the temperatures dip and the days get shorter, it's funny how some of the travel wonks get excited about winter. Sitting around the dinner table at LaVelle's, the city's upscale bistro, everybody is ready to pull the plug on winter for some fun in the sun.

Mary Anne Flowers said she's ready for some Hawaii. "I've got a jar of green sand from the Big Island of Hawaii on my desk," she said. "When things get stressful at work, I just think of going back to the land of 'aloha.' "

This month actually is a really good time to plan a tropical holiday. The best deals to Hawaii are between Feb. 17 and April 3, when both Hawaiian Vacations and Northwest Airlines are flying between Anchorage and Maui. Both airlines have good deals with tour operators and wholesalers. You can cash in on one of the good "tour-based" airfares by renting a car for a week or buying a week's worth of hotel accommodations. Hawaiian Vacations offers a great rate of just $549 round trip when booked with a car rental or hotel stay. Northwest has similar bargains. Check with your travel agent for details.

"I can't wait to go back to Mexico," said Penny Wells, a frequent traveler to Mexico. The best bargains south of the border are with Alaska Airlines. But you've got to purchase the deals between now and Nov. 4.

It's part of Alaska Airlines' "PFD" travel bargains. You can fly from Anchorage or Fairbanks to any one of Alaska's seven Mexico destinations for just $599 round trip. Of course, there's an extra $100 or so to add on for taxes. Still, it's a good deal to get from Anchorage to Cancun, Manzanillo, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas or Guadalajara.

Because of the dependable air service between Anchorage and both Hawaii and Mexico, more Alaskans are purchasing second homes in the tropical climes. Rod Bradley is a frequent attendee at the travel industry conference. He's getting ready to head back to his home north of Cabo San Lucas. It's appropriate. After all, that winter wind is coming up the Chena River as we stand outside Pike's Waterfront Lodge. Even though it's clear that winter is coming, there still are three jet skiers outside on the Chena River. Heck, Capt. Binkley has parked his Riverboat Discovery for the season, but these Fairbanks folks don't know when to quit! I was glad to see at least one of the jet-skiers had a jacket on over his wet suit!

Mexico and Hawaii aside, there are some great deals on airfares between Anchorage and Europe.

Yoshi Ogawa over at ITC Travel has a special $698 rate for travel from Anchorage or Fairbanks to more than 30 cities throughout Europe.

To several of the European cities, there are better deals from time to time. But, as Yoshi said, you have to "stand on your head" to qualify. That means you have to travel on a specific midweek day, stay a certain number of days and comply with other restrictions.

Ogawa's special deal, which features travel on SAS Scandinavian Airlines from Seattle, is valid for travel between now and March 31, 2005. There is an 11-day blackout period around Christmas. The least expensive fares are for travel Mondays-Thursdays. You can fly on Friday, Saturday or Sunday for an extra $50 each way.

The list of cities is impressive, including Athens, Malaga, Rome, London, Amsterdam and Nice. Altogether, there are 32 cities in 11 countries.

Don't get me wrong: There's nothing bad about travel during the winter to Fairbanks. But it's clear that even the locals are anxious to fly out for some fun and sun. It appears this is the month to make your plans.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based travel marketing consultant. E-mail him at zoom@toursaver.com

Journal Gazette | 10/10/2004 | Canadian vacation yields fjords, whales Travel

Journal Gazette | 10/10/2004 | Canadian vacation yields fjords, whales Travel

Scenic tours offer great vistas


By Denis Horgan
Hartford Courant

TADOUSSAC, Quebec – Who ever heard of whales in a river?

Well, they have them in Tadoussac. There are lots of whales in the St. Lawrence River. Big whales and little whales. Blue whales and white whales. No, not Moby Dick but belugas, which we consider silly looking without much wondering what they might think of us.

Of course, the St. Lawrence is 15 miles wide here, so wide it seems almost more like a bay than a river, and the water is cold and actually salty. So it has whales.

Who knew?

Lots of people know and most of them speak French, as do most of the people in the beautiful region. The area is a popular resort and vacation center for Canadians. There seemed to be more boats watching the whales than there are whales to be watched from the boats, but, for better or worse, nearly no one on the tour boat I was on or any of the others we mingled with seemed to be from the United States.

Odd because this wonderful place is an ideal long weekend’s getaway trip from the Northeast United States; it is easy to find and easy to negotiate; it is very beautiful in the way that so much of this grand country is beautiful; it is just up the road from Quebec City, the nifty walled-in museum of Canada’s past and present; it is rich in diverse and cheery things to do and, if you try at all, folks will meet you more than halfway on the language.

Red-roofed Tadoussac sits at the water’s edge of the St. Lawrence and Saguenay rivers, just northeast of the fjord. Yes, fjord. Not content to dazzle the stranger with whales, they also have a fjord here. (A fjord is defined as a deep, steep-walled, U-shaped valley formed by erosion by a glacier and submerged with seawater.)

Whales like these waters because the flow from the Saguenay brings in food in abundance, stirred in crisp waters exactly to the whales’ lip-smacking taste. Visitors ship aboard great big double-decker boats and smaller vessels and rubber Zodiac rafts to greet the leviathans in the maritime estuary. Finding them is easy: by ancient whale rules, whales will always be on the opposite side of the boat than you are on. Ahoy.

Tadoussac, which is celebrating its 400th anniversary this year, is only a two- or three-hour drive from Quebec City if you are in a mad rush. If so, slow down. The 120-mile drive through the Charlevoix region is so amazing that it deserves far more time and attention than that.

Charlevoix is a huge fan-shaped region flowing to the northeast from Quebec City. It is bounded by the St. Lawrence and east-west Saguenay rivers and by a line through the ancient forests of the Laurentians. A trip starting at Quebec City allows you to rattle around the Ile-d’Orleans and the Ile-aux-Coudres and visit the basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre, a place of great reverence and faith for people who come from all points of the compass, often seeking miracles for their illnesses.

Route 440 sails along through lovely farmland and over rolling hills (some so steep as to give a driver a case of the heebie-jeebies), but it would be a sad loss to have missed the coastal beauties available on the scenic detour of Route 138 to Baie-Saint-Paul. This road visits the river, high and low, offering great vistas. Baie-Saint-Paul is a neat little collection of shops and galleries, an arts center for more than a century – spiked, as is the custom everywhere here, with silver-painted church steeples.

Charlevoix is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, so designated for its natural and traditional cultural treasures. The landscape includes the Laurentian Mountains, rolling valleys, the St. Lawrence River and its scenic areas. The rich used to come here, and still may be around. Out of sight.

The region is home to ski resorts, golf courses and family recreation centers, and a terrain noted for its hiking, bicycling, snowmobiling and dog sledding. There are cliffs, islands, parks, little villages and artists colonies galore.

The Charlevoix area was shaped by a 15-billion-ton meteorite that slammed into here some 350 million years ago. If you are the nervous sort, these things seldom hit on the same spot – even with 350 million years to refine their aim.

Tadoussac is formally in the “Kingdom of Saguenay,” a mythical nickname for a quite real bit of treasure. The Saguenay fjord is so wide you need to take a ferry across to continue on Route 138; from the fast-moving vessel we saw our first whales, Ivory-soap-white belugas.

Tadoussac, whose 1864-built hotel of the same name is a famed landmark, is a port and crossroads and cultural and historic center. There are many whale-watching outfits, kayak rentals and other ways to visit the water. (“Tadoussac” comes from an Algonquin word for “breasts,” a thought supposedly inspired in those folks by the surrounding hills. The winters can be long and they didn’t get out much.)

The small town is full of galleries and restaurants and hotels. The country’s oldest wooden church, the Chapelle de Tadoussac, is here looking like a toy. There is an excellent maritime center which briefs you about the whales and their lifestyle and is a required stop – or ought to be – for anyone wanting to know about those big lunks out there in the water.

Whale watches usually run for about four hours, morning and afternoon. Bring binoculars, sunscreen and warm clothes. It is quite brisk out there. The boats skitter from here to there, spotting the spray of the blue whales, the unearthly white of the belugas.

The whales watched, we drove a long loop through the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region – east along the north side of the fjord and river for 60 miles on Route 172 to Chicoutimi (the only place the river is bridged) and back along 170 (past the Baie des Ha! Ha! with its large pyramid, built to commemorate having survived the great flood of 1996) on the south side.

The entire region is a Canadian marine park, protected, sheltered and beautiful. The loop, a long day’s drive, offered amazing diversions, beaches, overlooks, abounding in attractions and breathtaking panoramic views.